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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.